How Americans Are Developing a Taste for Czech “Mlíko”

An increasing number of American pubs are adopting the traditional Czech beer-tapping method, using special taps to pour beer correctly.

One particular method, known as mlíko, is gaining traction across the Atlantic, with its growing popularity even catching the attention of The New York Times, which recently devoted an entire report to it.

“You might think the bartender has lost his mind when, instead of a golden lager, you receive a glass filled with thick, creamy foam. But it’s not a mistake—I just got mlíko,” writes New York Times journalist Luke Fortney.

This unique beer style is no longer confined to just one or two locations. Breweries across the U.S., particularly those specializing in Czech lagers, are introducing it to their customers.

“People are looking for ways to stand out,” says Eric Larkin, co-owner of Cohesion Brewing in Denver. A long-time admirer of Czech beer, Larkin fell in love with it while honeymooning in Prague. “Czech lagers aren’t that well-known in the U.S. yet, but there’s room for growth,” he notes.

At his brewery, visitors can choose from three traditional Czech pours. The hladinka is a standard pour with a thick, creamy head. The šnyt is a more foam-heavy option, with two-thirds foam and one-third beer.

And then there’s the mlíko—a glass filled almost entirely with creamy beer foam, a style named after the Czech word for milk. “Americans are afraid of foam,” Larkin explains. “We’ve been taught that foam is bad, that it’s just taking up space in the glass.”

How Did “Mlíko” Originate? A Joke That Stuck

The exact origins of mlíko remain a mystery. One theory suggests it emerged in the 19th century as a way to make beer more palatable for women who disliked its bitterness. However, a more likely story places its birth in 20th-century Prague, where bartenders experimented with their taps, possibly as a joke.

Unlike American taps, which function as simple on/off levers, Czech beer taps allow precise control over foam production. This enables bartenders to craft different styles of pours, including the signature mlíko.

For years, Czech-style taps were nearly impossible to find in the U.S.. Eric Larkin, determined to serve beer the traditional way, took matters into his own hands. He traveled directly to a Czech manufacturer and refused to leave until he secured a tap.

That changed in 2015, when the Pilsen-based company Lukr began exporting its tap systems to American bars. “The first year, I sold about a dozen taps, mostly to beer enthusiasts,” says Jan Havránek, Lukr’s head of international sales. Today, the company ships between 1,000 and 2,000 units per year to the U.S.

Would you like us to write about your business? Find out more