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At Manifesto Market, the aroma of Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil stands out among the usual mix of street food and drinks.
It comes from Lá Bù Lá Street, the more casual sibling of the restaurant Lá Bù Lá, both founded by Wen, a Chongqing native who wants to introduce Prague diners to the real flavors of her hometown.
Wen arrived in Prague in 2019 after being accepted into a Master’s program at the Prague University of Economics and Business. But studying was only part of the reason she moved. At 22, she wanted a new beginning and the chance to discover a different version of herself.
“There was something about Prague that attracted me immediately,” she says. “The architecture, the pace of life, the atmosphere of the city —
it all felt very charming. I wanted to see what kind of person I could become here.”
That decision eventually led her into the restaurant business, with four concepts launched over the years — two that closed and two that continue today.
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Beyond the Stereotypes
For Wen, opening a Chinese restaurant in Prague was never only about selling food. It was also about showing people that Chinese cuisine is far more diverse than many stereotypes suggest.
“China is a huge country, and every region has its own culture and food traditions,” she says. Through her restaurants, she hopes guests become more curious about where dishes come from, how ingredients are used, and how different regions eat.
She also wants Chinese food to be seen as something connected to special occasions, not only a quick meal.
“Chinese food can create beautiful memories too,” she says. One example is Chongqing chili, which is often associated only with heat. Wen says there is much more to it.
“Many people think Chongqing chili is only about being spicy. But it is also about aroma,” she explains. The same applies to Sichuan peppercorns, where the famous numbing sensation is only part of the experience.
Learning the Hard Way
Wen’s path has not been simple. Her first two projects, Chi Xiao Mian and Mi I’m, did not succeed as she had hoped, but she sees them as important lessons.
“They taught me how to work with people, how to manage a team, and how important communication is,” she says.
The experience also taught her to stay focused on her original vision. Running a restaurant requires listening to others, but also knowing when to trust your own ideas.
“Building something meaningful always requires finding a balance between dreams and reality,” she says.
A Restaurant, and Then a Street
Today, Wen runs two concepts: Lá Bù Lá and Lá Bù Lá Street. The name, meaning “spicy, not spicy,” reflects the idea that Chongqing cuisine is about much more than just heat.
The original restaurant offers a deeper introduction to traditional Chongqing dishes, while Lá Bù Lá Street at Manifesto Market has a more relaxed atmosphere.
“It is more spontaneous and more social,” Wen says. The concept is inspired by street food culture in Chongqing, where people gather, share dishes, and spend time together.
At Manifesto, surrounded by music, travelers, and international crowds, the idea has naturally evolved. Some dishes work better for sharing, while others simply encourage people to stay longer.
“For us, food tastes better when shared,” Wen says. “Passed around a table. Offered to a friend. Or quietly stolen from someone else’s plate.”
Growing Step by Step
Like many restaurant owners, Wen faces daily challenges, from managing a team to introducing unfamiliar flavors to new customers. Building a group of people who share her values has been one of the most difficult parts.
When asked about opening more locations in Prague, she says the ambition is there — but there is no rush.
“Of course, I would love for more people to discover the food of my hometown,” she says. “But I am not in a hurry.”
For now, Wen is focused on improving the restaurants she already has and building a stronger team.
“When my team and I are truly ready, we can always begin the next journey,” she says. “For now, we are happy to keep growing step by step.”
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